kusshi oysters with kimchi shaved ice

This past weekend, my husband and I drove down to Portland for a quick 2 ½ day getaway. (I was there for a cooking demo on KATU’s AM Northwest—and will post a link to the video tomorrow.) Of course, we spent our 2 ½ days eating: We revisited some of our past favorites, and sought out a few new restaurants that had been on our radar, too. Our first night was spent at Tanuki, a veritable den of drunken debauchery helmed by one opinionated chef: Janis Martin.

shredded dried squid wokked with spicy Kewpie mayonnaise

I’ve blogged about Tanuki before, but this evening, I was happy I got a few photos that more accurately illustrate Martin’s skill. (The last few photos in this post were taken in dim light and therefore less tempting, but rest assured, Martin’s food is always artfully arranged.)

warm simmered duck and mushroom salad with gingko nuts and crispy duck skin

The food at Tanuki is varied: sometimes subtle and delicate, sometimes full-flavored and rustic. Whatever you order, it’ll go well with the incredible sake list. I had a number of sakes that evening, but the one that remains fresh in memory is the Wataribune Namazake. (Namakaze is unpasteurized sake, served cold—as all good sake should be!) There were ten cases of this sake exported, and tiny Tanuki snagged three of these cases. If you live in Portland, be sure to hurry down and order a bottle of this sweet, spicy, almost milky-tasting sake. Martin will even sell you a “shot” if you just want a taste. It is incredible. You won’t be sorry.

cinnamon tea pickled quail eggs

Kyushu hamachi belly sashimi with fresh wasabi, namashoyu, pickled hajikama ginger

bluefin tuna, diced avocado and green apple, wasabi, and frozen white ponzu

shark cartilege with ume in fried nori

“Rags” (chopped steamed rice dumplings) filled with wild boar, fried shallots, Kentucky Colonel mint, shiso, Thai basil, mild sweet and sour sauce

And what can I tell you about this endless parade of dishes? The fish was supremely fatty, fresh, and sweet. Martin anoints each piece with a mild, white soy sauce that allows the seafood to shine. I especially enjoyed the warm mushroom and duck salad with crispy duck skin. With the shitake and gingko nuts, it reminded me of a comforting, home-style Cantonese dish my mom prepares. The wild boar rice noodle “rags” with mint and shiso was so clean and bright tasting, and the noodles were astonishingly thin. I could sink my face in a mountainous bowl of those noodles and be quite happy.

fresh sake-steamed eel “noodles”, sweet miso sauce, mitsuba and ginger

halibut cheeks seared in candlenut, kare braised pig tail

Of course, the pig’s tail—full of gelatinous skin, fat, and fall-apart tender meat was another highlight. On top: halibut cheeks cooked in candlenut oil. Now that’s surf and turf.

jellyfish and Dungeness crab salad with grated sake poached monkfish liver, spicy carrot tops

unagi burgers, spicy tuna belly mayo, roe

We opted for an omakase meal, and Janis and I had spoke beforehand about the ingredients she’d be getting in that evening. One item that Janis serves often during Happy Hour is her “unagi burger”. She was sweet enough to send out a plate, and let me tell you, if I lived in Portland, I’d be here every afternoon. With spicy tuna belly mayo, crunchy roe and shredded cucumber, this is easily one of the best burgers I’ve ever eaten.

beef tendon and marrow salted caramel, fried peanuts, candied ginger and coriander

kimchi marinaded sliced beef onglet, salt-preserved liver sauce

slow-cooked pork belly with daikon in duck dashi

Course 18 that I forgot to photograph: two rounds of uni with grated fresh wasabi

late night treat: hamachi and sea bream fish skeletons, cooked on Janis’ outdoor alley grill

A bit of warning: Tanuki is Martin’s playground, and if you want to eat like this,  you’d best not be easily offended. She likes to play certain kinds of seedy, cult Japanese movies in the restaurant/bar–which is another reason why she has a no-kids policy.

And of course, if you live outside of Portland but want to hear about what Martin is cooking up in the kitchen each night, you can follow her on Twitter @tanukipdx. (I don’t share Martin’s political views, but can tell you that underneath all that gruffness is a dear, kind person who works endless hours to keep her prices reasonable. All so her friends–some of them unemployed due to the economy–can still afford to stop in, enjoy some sake, and an unagi burger.)

Thanks Janis, Mel, and Marisa for a another wonderful and memorable evening.

Tanuki is located at 413 NW 21st Ave in Portland, OR. 503.241.7667