“Fish-Fragrant” pork slivers (yu xiang rou si). Classic Shanghainese dish.

Shanghai River opened to much fanfare years ago. Many would say it was the first high-end Shanghainese restaurant in Richmond. The waits here when they opened were notoriously long, and continue to be on the weekends for dim sum, and on most evenings for dinner. I ate here for the first time years ago when they were brand-new, and remember the food to be phenomenal. After this recent visit, I must say the food here is still good, but has gone downhill a little. The difference might not be readily apparent, but can be found in small “misses”–slightly over-steamed xiao long bao wrappers, for one. (One of the dumplings in the steamer actually arrived already punctured, with the soup leaking out. Big no-no.)

Shanghai River’s famous xiao long bao

Still, Shanghai River built their reputation on their xiao long bao, and it is easy to see why. To be fair, the over-steaming could’ve been a one-time mistake and these are still, in my opinion, the best overall xiao long bao in the city. The pork filling is soft and fatty, and their soup is not too chicken-y. The pork filling at Shanghai River is also, for my tastes, the most pleasing, with slightly more ginger and scallion flavor than most you’d find in the city.

People often ask me where to get “the best” xiao long bao in Richmond. There’s no one right answer for that–the answer would depend on what aspect of the xiao long bao is most important to you.

If I were to break it down in an overly analytical way, I would say:

Best wrapper, if “thinnest” constitutes “best” in your opinion: Long’s Noodle House or Shanghai River

Best wrapper, if you (like my dad) does not mind a slightly thicker wrapper provided it has a little bit of chew: 1. Shanghai House 2. Northern Dynasty

Best soup filling, if you like a fatty porky soup: Shanghai House

Best soup filling, if you like a lighter, more chicken-y soup: Long’s Noodle House

Best pork filling, if you like a soft, moist, fatty pork filling: 1. Shanghai River 2. Northern Dynasty

Best pork filling, if you like a leaner filling: Shanghai House

Best overall xiao long bao to eat in Richmond/Vancouver if your platonic ideal of xiao long bao are the famous ones from Din Tai Fung: Long’s Noodle House

My favorite overall xiao long bao (despite the over-steamed wrappers!): Shanghai River

(Food-lovers who have been to Richmond BC for xiao long bao will see two restaurants notably absent from the running–Top Shanghai, and Chen’s. Two years ago, these two restaurants made some of the best xiao long bao in the city, but both restaurants have gone downhill since. Chefs move on. We do not eat at either of these restaurants anymore.)

green onion pancakes

sliced beef in flaky sesame pastry–a classic Shanghainese dim sum item

The rest of the meal at Shanghai River was pretty standard, with the yu xiang rou si (Fish-fragrant pork slivers pictured top) being a stand-out. Shanghai River’s yu xiang rou si is very different from the version I make at home, which I patterned after my favorite yu xiang rou si ever–the one once served at Top Shanghai, which, 2-3 years ago, was my favorite Shanghainese restaurant in Richmond. Shanghai River’s version is simply slivered pork in a sweetish, tangy, barely spicy sauce over spinach. (To be honest, it tastes like a version skewed towards Cantonese palates–not surprising, considering the number of Cantonese people living in Richmond. And by the way–I don’t mean that as a slight; I’m Cantonese!) The version I cook at home uses less sugar, more Chinese black vinegar, more chilies, and includes slivered pressed tofu, slivered bamboo shoots, and slivered shitake mushrooms, and no spinach. Fish-fragrant pork slivers is one of those dishes with countless interpretations. There is no one “correct” way of making the dish–the required components are simply slivered pork, Chinese black vinegar, some sort of spice, a bit of sugar, and of course, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, scallions, and Shao Xing wine.

cold sliced pig’s ears and jellyfish in the background–standard appetizers, weakest dishes on the table

chili oil wontons

I really enjoyed the chili oil wontons at Shanghai River, but the only bad thing about having the same exemplary dish earlier in the week at Long’s Noodle House is that nothing seems to compare!

crab claws

I was dining with someone who loves crab claws, so we got them. This dish is a Cantonese dim sum item so normally I wouldn’t have ordered this dish here at Shanghai River.

fish maw and crab soup

Fish maw and crab soup probably my favorite Chinese soup ever, and here it is with about a teaspoon of red vinegar mixed it. Delicious. (By the way, if you love fish maw soup, Kirin does an excellent fish maw and snake soup, and it’s located right across the street from Shanghai River!)

Shanghai River is located at 7831 Westminister Hwy, Richmond BC; 604. 233.8885